Ingredient glossary
Phytosphingosine
On your shelf ✓What Phytosphingosine does for your skin, who it suits, and what to watch for.
INCI: Phytosphingosine · Also: PHS
In short: Phytosphingosine delivers hydration and barrier support, suits dry skin best, and the evidence behind it is strong.
- What it does
- Hydration, barrier support
- Best for
- Dry skin
- Evidence
- Strong
- How long
- Never measured
The molecule
The Glow take
Genuinely worth a spot in your routine.
When your goal is repairing a stressed moisture barrier, Phytosphingosine pulls genuine weight, and the research properly backs it up. It tends to suit dry skin best.
— Maya
What it does
- hydration
- barrier support
- anti acne
strong evidenceStudies show antimicrobial and anti inflammatory effects, increased filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor, and integration into ceramide structures; the data cover barrier and acne rather than long term anti aging outcomes.
Who it's for, and who should skip it
Tends to suit
- acne prone
- compromised barrier
- dehydrated
- mature
Approach with care
- rare allergy
- Irritation riskLow
How it fits each skin type
- DrySuits
- CombinationNeutral
- OilyNeutral
- SensitiveNeutral
Often chosen for acne prone, compromised barrier, mature. Take extra care if any of these apply to you: rare allergy.
Where it fits in your routine
Nobody has published how long this takes to work.
What is known, and what is missing
Measured on: Stratum corneum barrier support and hydration (the highest-scored job in this row).
What is known: phytosphingosine is a skin-identical sphingoid base incorporated into barrier ceramides, with in vitro antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity and reported increases in filaggrin and NMF. What is missing: no human trial reports when TEWL, corneometry or any barrier endpoint changes with phytosphingosine specifically, as opposed to with multi-lipid ceramide complexes. The only timed human data is for the secondary acne role - a 30-subject split-face pilot in which 0.2% phytosphingosine was added to benzoyl peroxide on one side and evaluated only after two months - which is a pilot, an add-on design, and not the outcome this row scores highest.
PMID:18489348 (Pavicic et al., phytosphingosine in vitro and in vivo acne pilot, 2-month evaluation) cited as the only timed human data; no barrier time-course trial identified
Plays well with
- ceramides
- cholesterol
- fatty acids
- humectants
Phytosphingosine, answered
Is Phytosphingosine safe during pregnancy?
Yes. Phytosphingosine is considered safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. As with anything, if you are unsure it is worth a quick word with your doctor or midwife.
Who should avoid Phytosphingosine?
Approach Phytosphingosine with care if any of these apply to you: rare allergy.
What concentration of Phytosphingosine actually works?
Its concentration is rarely printed on the label, so use the ingredient list as your clue: near the top third it is likely doing real work, near the bottom it is more of a sprinkle.
Does it clog pores?
No standardized comedogenic rating published; treated as 0 here.
- This rating comes from old lab tests on the isolated ingredient, not the finished product.
- The full formula, how much is used, and your own skin all matter more than one number.
- If you are acne-prone it is worth noticing, not a reason to avoid it on sight.
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Can you mix Phytosphingosine with
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