Ingredient glossary

Azelaic Acid

What Azelaic Acid does for your skin, who it suits, and what to watch for.

INCI: Azelaic Acid

Solid and proven

In short: Azelaic Acid delivers anti acne and brightening, suits most skin types, and the evidence behind it is moderate. One thing to know: introduce it gently.

What it does
Anti acne, brightening
Best for
Combination, Oily, Sensitive skin
Watch out
Introduce it gently
Evidence
Moderate
How long
8–12 weeks
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The molecule

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The Glow take

One of the ingredients I trust most.

When your goal is calming breakouts and congestion, Azelaic Acid delivers, with a solid amount of evidence behind it. Introduce it gently, and pair it with something soothing if your skin runs sensitive.

— Maya

What it does

  • anti acne
  • brightening
  • anti redness

moderate evidenceThe trials all sit at prescription strength, 15% or 20%: a systematic review found high-certainty evidence that 15% gel or 20% cream reduces rosacea papules and pustules, the 2024 US acne guideline rates it only a conditional option for acne, and the pigment studies in Fitzpatrick IV–VI skin used 20% cream. The 10% sold over the counter has not been tested this way. Burning or stinging in the first weeks is the usual complaint, in roughly 5 to 10 percent of users, and it settles.

On a label: works best above 10%.

Who it's for, and who should skip it

Tends to suit

  • acne prone
  • rosacea
  • pigmentation
  • oily
  • combo
  • sensitive

Approach with care

  • very sensitive initial
  • Clogs poresLow
  • Irritation riskModerate

How it fits each skin type

  • DryNeutral
  • CombinationSuits
  • OilySuits
  • SensitiveSuits

Often chosen for acne prone, rosacea, pigmentation. Take extra care if any of these apply to you: very sensitive (when first starting).

Where it fits in your routine

WhenMorning or evening
Where in the orderAfter cleansing, before your moisturizer

Give it eight to twelve weeks, and possibly less: that is simply when it was measured.

What was measured, and in whom

Measured on: inflammatory lesion count (papules and pustules) in papulopustular rosacea, investigator-counted.

The evidence is two identical multicentre double-blind vehicle-controlled 12-week trials of 15% gel twice daily, 329 and 335 patients, in which inflammatory lesion counts fell 58% against 40% on vehicle in one study and 51% against 39% in the other. Both the papers and the approved labelling report that difference at the end of treatment and tabulate week 12 only; the trials had earlier visits but none is published as the first to separate from vehicle, so 12 weeks is a ceiling and onset may well be earlier. A GRADE-assessed systematic review rates the papule and pustule reduction high-certainty, which establishes that the effect is real, not when it appears. Pigment is a slower and separate wait - the melasma work uses 20% cream over roughly six months in Fitzpatrick IV-VI skin - and the 2024 US acne guideline rates azelaic acid only a conditional option. The 10% sold over the counter has never been trialled this way, so this bucket describes prescription strength; stinging in the first weeks is usual and settles.

Thiboutot D, Thieroff-Ekerdt R, Graupe K, 'Efficacy and safety of azelaic acid (15%) gel as a new treatment for papulopustular rosacea: results from two vehicle-controlled, randomized phase III studies', J Am Acad Dermatol 2003, PMID:12789172 - verified against PubMed. FINACEA (azelaic acid) Gel 15% prescribing information, Clinical Studies, which states the vehicle difference at the end of treatment and reports week 12 only. GRADE-assessed systematic review of rosacea interventions, Br J Dermatol 2019, PMID:30585305 (high-certainty evidence for topical azelaic acid on papules and pustules). Acne clause: PMID:38300170 (AAD 2024 acne guideline, conditional recommendation).

Plays well with

Azelaic Acid, answered

Is Azelaic Acid safe during pregnancy?

Yes. Azelaic Acid is considered safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. As with anything, if you are unsure it is worth a quick word with your doctor or midwife.

Who should avoid Azelaic Acid?

Approach Azelaic Acid with care if any of these apply to you: very sensitive (when first starting). Its irritation risk is moderate, so introduce it slowly and patch test first.

What concentration of Azelaic Acid actually works?

Research tends to show Azelaic Acid starts pulling its weight above 10%. If a brand prints the percentage, that is the number to look for.

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Sources & how we reviewed this

  1. PMID 30585305read in full
  2. PMID 38300170abstract only, the full text is paywalled
  3. PMID 39440650read in full
  4. PMID 41011144read in full
  5. PMID 41923969read in full

Last reviewed August 2026. Educational information about a cosmetic ingredient, not medical advice.