How much azelaic acid do you need? 15%+
The effective azelaic acid percentage, by the vehicle-controlled trials, starts at 15%; no published dose comparison sets a ceiling.
Give it eight to twelve weeks, and possibly less: that is simply when it was measured.
how it was measured
Measured on inflammatory lesion count (papules and pustules) in papulopustular rosacea, investigator-counted; measured at the trial's end, so possibly sooner.PMID 12789172PMID 30585305PMID 38300170
5%, Pazoki-Toroudi 2011.
No dose comparison found between 15 and 20%, and nothing tests 10% against vehicle; 5% gel alone cut the acne severity index by 32% where 5% with clindamycin cut it 64%, no placebo arm at that dose (Pazoki-Toroudi 2011).
What azelaic acid percentage is effective?
Floor 15%: two identical vehicle-controlled phase III trials of 15% gel twice daily in papulopustular rosacea, 329 and 335 patients over 12 weeks, cut inflammatory lesions 58% versus 40% and 51% versus 39% (Thiboutot 2003).
15%+
The trials, and what they used
- 20% cream beat its vehicle in 92 acne patients over 3 months (Katsambas 1989), in 116 rosacea patients over 3 months (Bjerke 1999), in 60 acne patients over 45 days with a 61% versus 20% lesion reduction (Iraji 2007) and in facial hyperpigmentation over 24 weeks (Lowe 1998).
- No dose comparison found between 15 and 20%, and nothing tests 10% against vehicle; 5% gel alone cut the acne severity index by 32% where 5% with clindamycin cut it 64%, no placebo arm at that dose (Pazoki-Toroudi 2011).
- 20% is the highest concentration tested and approved, not a measured ceiling.
Is more than 15% azelaic acid better?
Nobody has measured it: no published dose comparison sets a ceiling for azelaic acid, so a percentage above 15% is above the trials' floor, not above a measured maximum. The highest dose tested in leave-on use was 20% (Bjerke 1999), and it was tolerated.
Local adverse events were transient and mainly mild or moderate, and rates were similar for azelaic acid cream (39.5%) and vehicle (38.5%).
The highest dose tested, in the paper’s words
- Local adverse events were transient and mainly mild or moderate, and rates were similar for azelaic acid cream (39.5%) and vehicle (38.5%).
No published dose comparison sets a ceiling for azelaic acid. A declared percentage above 15% is above the trials' floor, not above a measured maximum: the trials say from 15% it works, and say nothing about whether more does more.
What does the azelaic acid percentage on a label tell you?
A name that states a percentage ("Azelaic Acid 15%") is the only amount a cosmetic label ever declares, so it is the one number that can be read against the trials: at or above the 15% floor, or below it.
A name without a percentage leaves the position. The rules make a brand list ingredients in descending order of amount down to 1%, and in any order below it, so azelaic acid above the 1% line is at least 1% and azelaic acid below it can be any trace the brand likes. The floor the trials worked from is 15%, and a position alone cannot tell you whether a label reaches it.
The azelaic acid percentages in our catalogue
10%The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
2nd of 27SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Azelaic Acid 10 Ampoule
One label declares a percentage on the name, read against the trials:
- The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%Azelaic Acid is declared at 10%: below the 15% floor the trials used.
One label carries it without a number, so the position is all there is:
- SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Azelaic Acid 10 AmpouleAzelaic Acid sits 2nd of 27, above the 1% line; the label does not say how much, and the trials worked from 15%.
Read on
- Azelaic Acid: the glossary page what it does, who it suits, where it fits
- Azelaic Acid vs Niacinamide
- Azelaic Acid vs Vitamin C (LAA)
- Azelaic Acid vs Retinal
- Azelaic Acid vs Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
- Azelaic Acid vs Retinyl Retinoate
- Azelaic Acid vs Tranexamic Acid
Other actives with a dose the trials pinned:
- Niacinamide 2%+
- Vitamin C (LAA) 5%+
- Retinol 0.075 to 0.3%
- Salicylic acid (BHA) 0.5%+
- Lactic acid 8%+
- Glycolic acid 5%+
- Retinal 0.05 to 0.1%
- Retinyl Retinoate 0.06%+
- Tretinoin 0.025%+
- Adapalene 0.1%+
- Tazarotene 0.045%+
- THD Ascorbate 1%+
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 5%+
- Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 0.0003%+
- Caffeine 2%+
- Benzoyl Peroxide 2.5 to 5%
- Tea Tree Oil 5%+
- Hydroquinone 4%+
- Bifida Ferment Lysate 10%+
- Thiamidol 0.2%+
- Cysteamine 5%+
- Menthol 0.1 to 5%
- Peppermint Oil 0.5%+
- N-Acetyl Glucosamine 2%+
- Alpha Lipoic Acid 5%+
- Ammonium lactate 12%+
- Acetylated Hyaluronic Acid 0.1%+
- 4-n-Butylresorcinol 0.1%+
- 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol 0.4%+
- Sphingomonas Ferment Extract 2%+