How much hydroquinone do you need? 4%+
The effective hydroquinone percentage, by the vehicle-controlled trials, starts at 4%; no published dose comparison sets a ceiling.
Reckon on four to eight weeks. No trial pins the exact point down; that is the standard clinical expectation.
how it was measured
Measured on Visible lightening of melasma and hyperpigmented patches, investigator-graded (MASI); the clinical consensus; no trial pins the point.
2%, Wattanakrai 2022.
2% has no vehicle-controlled trial: against 1.4% silymarin it cut mMASI 18% in 3 months, split-face in 23 completers (Wattanakrai 2022).
What hydroquinone percentage is effective?
Floor 4%: 4% hydroquinone cream beat placebo cream on the opposite side of the face in 25 completers with melasma over 3 months, 76.9% improvement as two observers graded it, with 25% side effects (Haddad 2003, double-blind), and beat placebo on MASI and mexameter in a three-arm trial of 45 Filipinos over 8 weeks, with the steepest fall between weeks 2 and 6 (Mendoza 2014).
4%+
The trials, and what they used
- 2% has no vehicle-controlled trial: against 1.4% silymarin it cut mMASI 18% in 3 months, split-face in 23 completers (Wattanakrai 2022).
- No comparison of 2% with 4% found.
- The ceilings are regulatory: banned from EU cosmetics (Annex II, 0.02% in nail systems only), 2% over-the-counter products withdrawn in the US in 2020 with 4% kept on prescription, and the cosmetic safety panel against any leave-on use (Andersen 2010).
Is more than 4% hydroquinone better?
Nobody has measured it: no published dose comparison sets a ceiling for hydroquinone, so a percentage above 4% is above the trials' floor, not above a measured maximum. The highest dose tested in leave-on use was 5% in a melasma cream with 0.1% tretinoin and 1% hydrocortisone, applied twice a week (Kang 1998), and the paper reports more irritation there.
To minimize unavoidable side effects (erythema or peeling), we applied RHQ twice a week instead of the usual daily application.
The highest dose tested, in the paper’s words
- To minimize unavoidable side effects (erythema or peeling), we applied RHQ twice a week instead of the usual daily application.
No published dose comparison sets a ceiling for hydroquinone. A declared percentage above 4% is above the trials' floor, not above a measured maximum: the trials say from 4% it works, and say nothing about whether more does more.
What does the hydroquinone percentage on a label tell you?
A name that states a percentage ("Hydroquinone 4%") is the only amount a cosmetic label ever declares, so it is the one number that can be read against the trials: at or above the 4% floor, or below it.
A name without a percentage leaves the position. The rules make a brand list ingredients in descending order of amount down to 1%, and in any order below it, so hydroquinone above the 1% line is at least 1% and hydroquinone below it can be any trace the brand likes. The floor the trials worked from is 4%, and a position alone cannot tell you whether a label reaches it.
The hydroquinone percentages in our catalogue
No product in our catalogue is sold on hydroquinone yet.
Read on
- Hydroquinone: the glossary page what it does, who it suits, where it fits
- Hydroquinone vs Niacinamide
- Hydroquinone vs Vitamin C (LAA)
- Hydroquinone vs Retinal
- Hydroquinone vs Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
- Hydroquinone vs Retinyl Retinoate
- Hydroquinone vs Azelaic Acid
Other actives with a dose the trials pinned:
- Niacinamide 2%+
- Vitamin C (LAA) 5%+
- Retinol 0.075 to 0.3%
- Salicylic acid (BHA) 0.5%+
- Lactic acid 8%+
- Glycolic acid 5%+
- Retinal 0.05 to 0.1%
- Retinyl Retinoate 0.06%+
- Tretinoin 0.025%+
- Adapalene 0.1%+
- Tazarotene 0.045%+
- Azelaic Acid 15%+
- THD Ascorbate 1%+
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 5%+
- Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 0.0003%+
- Caffeine 2%+
- Benzoyl Peroxide 2.5 to 5%
- Tea Tree Oil 5%+
- Bifida Ferment Lysate 10%+
- Thiamidol 0.2%+
- Cysteamine 5%+
- Menthol 0.1 to 5%
- Peppermint Oil 0.5%+
- N-Acetyl Glucosamine 2%+
- Alpha Lipoic Acid 5%+
- Ammonium lactate 12%+
- Acetylated Hyaluronic Acid 0.1%+
- 4-n-Butylresorcinol 0.1%+
- 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol 0.4%+
- Sphingomonas Ferment Extract 2%+