Ingredient glossary

Polysorbate 20

What Polysorbate 20 does for your skin, who it suits, and what to watch for.

INCI: Polysorbate 20 · Also: Tween 20

Minor player

In short: Polysorbate 20 delivers solubilization and emulsification, plays a broad, supporting role, and the evidence behind it is strong. One thing to know: introduce it gently.

What it does
Solubilization, emulsification
Best for
A broad, supporting role
Watch out
Introduce it gently
Evidence
Strong
Does it clash with what you use? Check it →

What it actually is

Polysorbate 20: A family, not a molecule. Built from a natural fat, so it is a set of related molecules of different chain lengths rather than one. It lifts oil while it is on the skin and then leaves with the water.
There is no single molecule to draw here, and that is the useful part. Which layer things act on

The Glow take

Nice to have, and nothing to overthink.

Polysorbate 20 plays a quiet supporting role, rounding out a formula rather than being the reason you buy it.

— Maya

What it does

  • solubilization
  • emulsification
  • cleansing

strong evidenceReviews describe a nonionic surfactant with HLB around 16.7, used to solubilize oils, stabilize emulsions and aid cleansing.

Why we say this
  • CIR and EMA summaries note low acute toxicity and infrequent contact allergy; 1,4 dioxane traces are controlled in manufacturing.
  • CIR safety review Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Polysorbates 20 and related ingredients
  • CIR safety review Final Report - Safety Assessment of Polysorbates as Used in Cosmetics

The nonionic surfactant family, at a glance

19 nonionic surfactant entries in the base, Polysorbate 20 among them. 15 of the 19 are an emulsifier.

  1. C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
  2. Ceteareth-20
  3. Coco-Glucoside
  4. Decyl Glucoside
  5. Isoceteth-20
  6. Laureth-7
  7. Myristyl Glucoside
  8. PEG-100 Stearate
  9. PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Ester
  10. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
  11. PEG-60 Castor Oil
  12. Poloxamer 338
  13. Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
  14. Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate
  15. Polysorbate 20
  16. Polysorbate 60
  17. PPG-24-Glycereth-24
  18. Sucrose Laurate
  19. Sucrose Stearate
What the family shares: 15 of the 19 are an emulsifier in the base; the rest carry other roles.In alphabetical order: the base holds nothing that ranks them.

Who it's for, and who should skip it

Tends to suit

No specific skin type. It is a broadly used ingredient.

Approach with care

  • very sensitive
  • eczema
  • rare allergy
  • Irritation riskModerate

How it fits each skin type

  • DryNeutral
  • CombinationNeutral
  • OilyNeutral
  • SensitiveTake care

Take extra care if any of these apply to you: eczema, rare allergy.

Where it fits in your routine

WhenMorning or evening
Where in the orderAfter cleansing, before your moisturizer

Plays well with

  • nonionic surfactants
  • preservatives
  • emulsifiers

Polysorbate 20, answered

Is Polysorbate 20 safe during pregnancy?

Yes. Polysorbate 20 is considered safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. As with anything, if you are unsure it is worth a quick word with your doctor or midwife.

Who should avoid Polysorbate 20?

Approach Polysorbate 20 with care if any of these apply to you: very sensitive, eczema, and rare allergy. Its irritation risk is moderate, so introduce it slowly and patch test first.

What concentration of Polysorbate 20 actually works?

Its concentration is rarely printed on the label, so use the ingredient list as your clue: near the top third it is likely doing real work, near the bottom it is more of a sprinkle.

Does it clog pores?

0/5
Non-comedogenic

No rating data located; considered non clogging at use levels.

  • This rating comes from old lab tests on the isolated ingredient, not the finished product.
  • The full formula, how much is used, and your own skin all matter more than one number.
  • If you are acne-prone it is worth noticing, not a reason to avoid it on sight.

This, for every label you own

One ingredient is easy. A full label is where it gets confusing. The Ingredient Decoder reads any product and tells you the honest truth, ingredient by ingredient.

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Sources & how we reviewed this

  1. CIR safety review Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Polysorbates 20 and related ingredientssummary page only, the document itself was not read
  2. CIR safety review Final Report - Safety Assessment of Polysorbates as Used in Cosmeticssummary page only, the document itself was not read

Last reviewed . Educational information about a cosmetic ingredient, not medical advice.

What changed on this page

  • : whether it feeds Malassezia
  • : what the EU regulates
  • : sources

See the full changelog →