Ingredient glossary

Centella Asiatica Extract

What Centella Asiatica Extract does for your skin, who it suits, and what to watch for.

INCI: Centella Asiatica Extract · Also: Cica, Gotu Kola

Solid and proven

In short: Centella Asiatica Extract delivers soothing and barrier support, suits dry and sensitive skin best, and the evidence behind it is strong.

What it does
Soothing, barrier support
Best for
Dry, Sensitive skin
Evidence
Strong
How long
Under 2 weeks
how it was measured

Measured on facial erythema and general wound appearance after ablative laser resurfacing, physician-graded against a placebo-treated half-face, with instrument erythema index as the supporting measure; the first visit at which the change was measurable.PMID 32310680PMID 34214362

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The Glow take

Genuinely worth a spot in your routine.

When your goal is repairing a stressed moisture barrier, Centella Asiatica Extract pulls genuine weight, and the research properly backs it up. It tends to suit dry skin best.

— Maya

What it does

  • soothing
  • barrier support
  • repair
  • anti redness

strong evidenceMultiple randomized and controlled studies show centella asiatica extracts shorten wound healing time improve scar outcomes and aid acute wound recovery with…

Why we say this
  • Multiple randomized and controlled studies show centella asiatica extracts shorten wound healing time improve scar outcomes and aid acute wound recovery with good safety.

The botanical family, at a glance

17 botanical entries in the base, Centella Asiatica Extract among them. 15 of the 17 are a supporting active.

  1. Aloe
  2. Bakuchiol
  3. Centella Asiatica Extract
  4. Ginger Root Extract
  5. Ginseng Root Extract
  6. Heartleaf Extract
  7. Honeysuckle Flower Extract
  8. Licochalcone A
  9. Mugwort Extract
  10. Neem Flower Extract
  11. Neem Leaf Extract
  12. Purslane Extract
  13. Rice Extract
  14. Rosemary Leaf Extract
  15. Tasmanian Pepperberry
  16. Willow Bark Extract
  17. Witch Hazel Extract
What the family shares: 15 of the 17 are a supporting active in the base; the rest carry other roles.In alphabetical order: the base holds nothing that ranks them.

How much do you need?

Not established

No human trial pins a dose. The reasoning is below, and it is the honest answer.

Why we say this
  • The one clean trial is of one standardised extract at one level: 0.05% ECa 233 gel against placebo, split-face after full-face Er:YAG resurfacing in 30 people, less erythema and better wound appearance at days 2, 4 and 7 (Damkerngsuntorn 2020).
  • That number does not transfer to a label: ECa 233 is standardised to at least 80% triterpenoids, while the INCI name covers extracts of unstated strength.
  • The other trials mix it: a herbal ointment with Mahonia and Viola against vehicle in 88 atopic patients, not significant (Klovekorn 2007); a Centella cream against a ceramide cream in 30 batik workers, no vehicle (Anggraeni 2021); an asiaticoside cream against vehicle in 27 women over 12 weeks, percentage not given (Lee 2008).

Who it's for, and who should skip it

Tends to suit

  • sensitive
  • very sensitive
  • dry
  • compromised barrier
  • rosacea
  • acne prone

Approach with care

  • rare allergy
  • Clogs poresLow
  • Irritation riskLow

How it fits each skin type

  • DrySuits
  • CombinationNeutral
  • OilyNeutral
  • SensitiveSuits

Often chosen for compromised barrier, rosacea, acne prone. Take extra care if any of these apply to you: rare allergy.

Where it fits in your routine

WhenMorning or evening
Where in the orderAfter cleansing, before your moisturizer

Give it under two weeks — that is when the change first became measurable.

What was measured, and in whom
  • Measured on: facial erythema and general wound appearance after ablative laser resurfacing, physician-graded against a placebo-treated half-face, with instrument erythema index as the supporting measure.
  • One trial tests the extract on its own against its own vehicle on human facial skin with a proper visit schedule.
  • Thirty people with acne scars had full-face 2940 nm Er:YAG resurfacing, then applied 0.05% ECa 233 gel — a standardised Centella asiatica extract — to one half-face and an identical placebo gel to the other, four times daily for the first week and twice daily thereafter, assessed at baseline, days 2, 4 and 7, then every two weeks through the first month and monthly to three.
  • Physician-graded erythema was significantly better on the treated side at day 2 and remained so at days 4 and 7, as did general wound appearance, with crusting separating at day 2 and the instrument erythema index lower across the whole follow-up.
  • Day 2 was the first post-baseline visit, so the true onset may be faster than the bucket says.
  • Two limits on how far this travels.
  • The skin had been ablated, so this dates recovery from a controlled wound rather than the calming of an ordinary reactive face — which is also why the strong wound-healing literature behind this row cannot be read as a cosmetic timeline.
  • And as the base's own solubility note says, the INCI covers everything from a water infusion to a triterpene concentrate; ECa 233 is at the concentrate end, a defined asiaticoside-and-madecassoside standard, so a generic centella water low in a toner is not the material that was tested.
  • The barrier claim is separately weaker: the only study is 30 batik workers with dry hands given a centella cream or a ceramide cream, comparator-controlled with no vehicle arm, reporting at 2 and 4 weeks.

Damkerngsuntorn W, Rerknimitr P, Panchaprateep R, Tangkijngamvong N, Kumtornrut C, Kerr SJ, Asawanonda P, Tantisira MH, Khemawoot P. 'The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial.' J Altern Complement Med. 2020;26(6):529-536. PMID:32310680 (DOI:10.1089/acm.2019.0325). Barrier clause: PMID:34214362 (Centella cream vs ceramide cream, 30 batik workers, comparator-controlled, reads at 2 and 4 weeks).

Plays well with

Centella Asiatica Extract, answered

Is Centella Asiatica Extract safe during pregnancy?

Yes. Centella Asiatica Extract is considered safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. As with anything, if you are unsure it is worth a quick word with your doctor or midwife.

Who should avoid Centella Asiatica Extract?

Approach Centella Asiatica Extract with care if any of these apply to you: rare allergy.

What concentration of Centella Asiatica Extract actually works?

Its concentration is rarely printed on the label, so use the ingredient list as your clue: near the top third it is likely doing real work, near the bottom it is more of a sprinkle.

This, for every label you own

One ingredient is easy. A full label is where it gets confusing. The Ingredient Decoder reads any product and tells you the honest truth, ingredient by ingredient.

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Sources & how we reviewed this

  1. PMID 36812692abstract read, not the full text

Last reviewed . Educational information about a cosmetic ingredient, not medical advice.

What changed on this page

  • : redness support score, redness basis, redness source
  • : what the EU regulates
  • : sources, the effective dose from trials

See the full changelog →