Ingredient glossary
THD Ascorbate
On your shelf ✓What THD Ascorbate does for your skin, who it suits, and what to watch for.
INCI: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate · Also: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbic Acid
In short: THD Ascorbate delivers brightening and antioxidant, suits most skin types, and the evidence behind it is moderate.
- What it does
- Brightening, antioxidant
- Best for
- Most skin types
- Evidence
- Moderate
- How long
- 4–8 weeks
how it was measured
Measured on periorbital wrinkle grade and topography; pigmentation pattern on reflectance confocal microscopy; measured at the trial's end, so possibly sooner.PMID 34910367PMID 33151621
The molecule
The Glow take
One of the ingredients I trust most.
When your goal is fading dark spots and evening out tone, THD Ascorbate delivers, with a solid amount of evidence behind it. Gentle enough that most skin types can reach for it.
— Maya
What it does
- brightening
- antioxidant
- anti aging
moderate evidenceIn vitro models and small clinical trials with thirty percent serum show meaningful melasma and tone improvement but the overall evidence base is still modest.
Why we say this
- CIR safety review Safety Assessment of Ethers and Esters of Ascorbic Acid as Used in Cosmetics 2022
On a label: usually effective at 5-30%.
The vitamin C derivative family, at a glance
6 vitamin C derivative entries in the base, THD Ascorbate among them. 5 of the 6 are an active.
- Ethyl Ascorbic Acid204 Da
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate322 Da
- Ascorbyl Glucoside338 Da
- Ascorbyl Palmitate415 Da
- Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate579 Da
- THD Ascorbate1,130 Da
How much do you need?
1%+
The vehicle-controlled trials worked from 1%; no published dose comparison sets a ceiling.
The trials, and what they used
- The floor comes from the supplier's own placebo-controlled work, so weigh it as such: NIKKOL ran 1%, 2% and 3% tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid creams against placebo, split-face on the periorbital area, 23 women per group for 8 weeks, and all three reduced wrinkles by visual grading and topography, the effect profile differing by concentration (Yokota 2022).
- Independently, a vehicle-controlled 42-day study in 32 women found the ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate formulation reduced pigmentation on confocal microscopy against vehicle, percentage not stated (D'Angelo Costa 2021).
- No published ceiling: 3% is the highest concentration tested and it was not better than 1% on the reported endpoints.
Who it's for, and who should skip it
Tends to suit
- normal
- combo
- oily
- dry
- pigmentation
- photoaged
Approach with care
- very sensitive
- Clogs poresLow
- Irritation riskLow
How it fits each skin type
- DrySuits
- CombinationSuits
- OilySuits
- SensitiveTake care
Often chosen for pigmentation, photoaged.
Where it fits in your routine
Give it four to eight weeks, and possibly less: that is simply when it was measured.
What was measured, and in whom
- Measured on: periorbital wrinkle grade and topography; pigmentation pattern on reflectance confocal microscopy.
- Two vehicle-controlled reads, both at a single endpoint.
- The supplier's split-face trial applied 1%, 2% or 3% tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid cream against placebo to the periorbital area of 23 women per group for 8 weeks and reported wrinkle improvement on visual grading and topography at that 8-week read (Yokota 2022, NIKKOL).
- An independent 42-day study in 32 women, four groups of eight, found the ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate formulation reduced hyperreflective pigment pixels and basal-layer brightness on confocal microscopy against vehicle at day 42 (D'Angelo Costa 2021).
- Neither abstract reports an earlier timepoint, so 6 to 8 weeks is a ceiling on onset, not the first week something separated.
Plays well with
- niacinamide
- vitamin e
- ferulic acid
- sunscreens
THD Ascorbate, answered
Is THD Ascorbate safe during pregnancy?
Yes. THD Ascorbate is considered safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. As with anything, if you are unsure it is worth a quick word with your doctor or midwife.
Who should avoid THD Ascorbate?
Approach THD Ascorbate with care if any of these apply to you: very sensitive.
What concentration of THD Ascorbate actually works?
THD Ascorbate tends to do its job in the 5 to 30% range. Much lower and it is likely underdosed.
Commonly confused with
- Vitamin C (LAA)Pure vitamin C is the strongest but least stable. THD ascorbate is an oil-loving derivative that trades some punch for a gentler, steadier feel.
Compare THD Ascorbate with
44 comparisons built, the 2 most looked-up above.
Can you mix THD Ascorbate with
3 pairings built.
This, for every label you own
One ingredient is easy. A full label is where it gets confusing. The Ingredient Decoder reads any product and tells you the honest truth, ingredient by ingredient.
Sources & how we reviewed this
- CIR safety review Safety Assessment of Ethers and Esters of Ascorbic Acid as Used in Cosmetics 2022summary page only, the document itself was not read
What changed on this page
- : the pH it needs
- : the highest dose tested
- : what the EU regulates